THE EMPIRE WRITES BACK

Part 1: Indian Views on Britain and Empire, 1810-1915, from The British Library, London

Detailed Listing

REEL 1

Awatsing Mahtabsing, Something about my trip to Europe (Sukkur, 1905). 119pp.

A fascinating account that reads partly as a Guide to subsequent travellers (for instance, comparing the merits of hotels, boarding houses and apartments) and part as a travelogue:

“Another sad but attractive sight one encounters in the streets is that of vagrant painters. They are painters in colours and draw figures in the foot-path in the streets and then stand by, with their hats in hand requesting every passer by to patronise their art by purchasing figures on paper for the amusement of children. Sometimes you find written in large letters their sad circumstances with a petition to have mercy on their innocent famishing children.” (p32)

Later, he reflects on the nature of English people and the importance of ‘place’ in the way they behave:

“In Sind we see very little of the English people, neither do we know them nor do they know us. We learn that some of the Anglo Indians are very haughty, overbearing and do not hesitate to insult natives of high rank or position. We are told that they consider it below their dignity to shake hands with natives. They would not like to travel with them in the same railway carriages if they could help it. …
In England the British people take a pride in being kind to strangers, who happen to be in their land. They consider it mean to be otherwise and they feel it their duty to resent any unmannerly conduct that may be shown towards strangers by the rude and rough who are to be found in the streets. Anglo Indians in England are foremost in paying attention to Indians. They take a great interest in their welfare. Some Anglo Indians have greeted me so enthusiastically as if I was their long departed friend. I was received on equal footing with brotherly feelings.” (p106)

Lala Baijnath, England and India: Being impressions of persons and things English and Indian and brief notes of visits to France, Switzerland, Italy, and Ceylon (Bombay, 1893). 236pp.

A classic book in which a privileged account of travels around England are sandwiched between travels to France, Switzerland, Italy and Egypt, providing useful points of comparison. There is much political analysis (both of the British system and figures of the time), but there is also material on the industry and agriculture of Britain. The contents are as follows:

CHAPTER I

Voyage to Europe. France and its principal Towns. 1-20

CHAPTER II

To England – The Home of my Masters. London – Its Streets – Houses – Ideas of Social Intercourse – Music – Theatres. 21-55

CHAPTER III

The Government. 56-73

CHAPTER IV

At Court – The Queen – The position of a Constitutional Sovereign in Europe – The Queen’s Palaces – Some Jubilee Reminiscences – The Imperial Institute. 74-86

CHAPTER V

Some Public Men and Politicians I have known – English Oratory – London Clubs and their Politics – Non-Political Associations – The Poor Law System – The Temperance Movement. 87-101

CHAPTER VI

Books – Some Characteristics of Modern English & Indian Literature – Free Libraries – News-Papers – Public Opinion. 102-126

CHAPTER VII

Law – the Law Courts – The Justice of the Peace – The Police. 127-142

CHAPTER VIII

Universities and Education. 143-164

CHAPTER IX

Religion – Churches. 165-184

CHAPTER X

London Suburbs – The Country: British Manufacturers – Wheat Trade, etc. 185-207

CHAPTER XI

The Continent – Switzerland – Italy – Egypt. 208-219

CHAPTER XII

Ceylon – Conclusion. 220-234

“They stared at me for my Indian dress; but I never wished to become a black-Englishman. Better a thousand starings than a change of one’s national habits.” (p21)

Mary Bhore, Some impressions of England (Poona, 1900). 39pp.

A very brief record of the visit to England of Mary Bhore (sometimes ‘Bhor’), based on a lecture delivered after her return to India.

“…as my time is limited, I would prefer to speak of what struck me and interested me most as a woman, namely – The social life of the English, the Education of the Women, and their influence on the life of the nation.
I had read so many English books, papers, Magazines, seen so many pictures of England, had friends and relations who visited the country, and told me the many differences in customs between here and there, and yet, surprise and bewilderment were my chief feelings for some time after arriving in England. It was not the surprise of seeing sights greater and grander than I expected – that would have been a traveller’s surprise. But the entirely different aspect of every day life, the way society worked out its rules in a people where not only the men are free, but the women also, and where the children are taught to be self-reliant and free as soon as age and circumstances permit, and yet, in all their freedom to be self-controlled and considerate of each other.” (p2)

Mary Carpenter, Last days in England of Rajah Rammohun Roy (London & Calcutta, 1866) and Mary Carpenter, Last days in England of Rajah Rammohun Roy (Third Edition, Calcutta, 1915). xvi + 258pp.

We present two editions of this important work documenting the teachings and final days of Rajah Rammohun Roy, who is described as a man “born very much before his time” and as the ‘Maker of Modern India.’

The third edition notes that since the appearance of a second edition in 1875, “many great changes have taken place in the political, social and religious thoughts of India. It is a matter of great satisfaction for us to be able to say that the Rajah’s countrymen have now begun to slowly appreciate his worth. His works have been collected and published and the people have been showing a keen desire to understand his true character….”

The contents are as follows:

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH – 1.

CHAPTER I – ENGLISH IMPRESSIONS – 18.
Missionary Reports (19); R Roy’s Writings (25); Abbé Gregoire’s Pamphlet (34); Letter from R Roy (43); Testimonies to R Roy (45); R Roy’s “Appeals,” (49); R Roy’s letter to Dr Rees (52); Letter to Dr Ware (58); Letter to Mr Estlin (62).

CHAPTER II – ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND, AND RESIDENCE IN LONDON – 63.
Interview with W Roscoe (69); Arrival in London (78); Reception at the Unitarian Association Meeting (80); Efforts for the Elevation of Women (86); Papers given to the Select Committee of the House of Commons on India (95); R Roy’s Publications (100); Social Intercourse (104); Letters to Miss Kiddell (114).

CHAPTER III – VISIT TO BRISTOL. THE RAJAH’S DEATH AND INTERMENT – 125.
Visit to Lewin’s Mead Chapel (126); Mr Sheppard’s Letter (130); Mr Foster’s Letter (134); Mr Estlin’s Journal (139); The Rajah’s Death (145); Interment (148); Sonnets (158).

CHAPTER IV – TRIBUTES TO THE RAJAH’S MEMORY – 161.
Testimony of Mr Hare’s Family 164); Miss Aikin’s Letter (167); Dr Boott’s Letter (169); Dr Tuckerman’s Letter (174); Poetical Tributes (175); Tributes from his Countrymen (182).

CHAPTER V - FUNERAL SERMONS FOR THE RAJAH – 185.
Dr Carpenter’s Sermon 186); Mr Aspland’s Sermon (204); Dr Drummond’s Sermon (219); Mr Porter’s Sermon (218); Mr Fox’s Sermon (230); Conclusion (241).

Rajarama Chatrapati, Diary of the late Rajah of Kolhapoor during his visit to Europe in 1870 (London, 1872)

Capt Edward W West edited this work. In addition to the diary there are also accounts of the Durbars at Poona in 1866 and 1868.

REEL 2

Frank Cundall, Reminiscences of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition (London,1886). xvi + 116pp.

At the high point of Empire, exhibitions describing the peoples, customs, resources and products of far-flung places were very popular in Britain. Their status is problematic: Did these celebrate the individuality of each country or did they seek to subordinate them? Cundall’s catalogue is very detailed and it paints a vivid picture in words and illustrations of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition of 1886. The Plan of the Exhibition is fascinating – showing how the ‘Colonial Experience’ was organised, with India as its starting point. Reconstructions of a Jaipur Gateway, a Baroda Pigeon-House, an Indian Palace and even a section of jungle were designed to impress and instruct. The tea-rooms were but one example of the way that Britain had been transformed by its Empire. Sections of the Exhibition were also devoted to Malta & Cyprus; Ceylon; Mauritius & the Seychelles; the Straits Settlements; Hong Kong; British North-Borneo; New South Wales; Victoria; Queensland; South Australia; Western Australia; New Zealand; Fiji; Canada; the West Indies; British Honduras; the Falkland Islands; Cape of Good Hope; Natal; West African Colonies; Gold Coast; Lagos; Sierra Leone; The Gambia; St Helena; and even ‘Old London.’ In addition to static exhibits there were also Indian artisans showing how carpets were woven, fabrics were dyed, and silver was wrought.

Nandalala Dasa, Reminiscences - English and Australasian, being an account of a visit to England, Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, Ceylon, etc (Calcutta, 1893). iv + 242pp.

Nandalala Dasa (or N L Dos as he appears on the title page) was a member of the London Missionary Society. He provides a dazzling and very impressionistic view of London, describing omnibuses and cabs, policemen, the shoe-black brigade, the crossing sweeper, hawkers and coster-mongers, Saturday markets, shops, glass windows, butchers, tailors, women as Post Office clerks, placards, posters, newsboys and much more. Above all he captures the vastness of London, its crowds and the urgency of life.

“LONDON the metropolis of England …. With its endless rows of houses, its labyrinth of streets, and its enormous population, it is quite a world in itself. One can form some idea of its vastness, when one learns, that it compasses an area of more than one hundred and twenty-two square miles and a population of more than four millions.”

REEL 3

Ramesachandra Datta, Three years in Europe (Calcutta,1873) and
Ramesachandra Datta, Three years in Europe (Calcutta, 1890). iv + 385pp.

Ramesachandra Datta (or Romesh Chunder Dutt) (1848-1909) was a noted Indian writer who published many novels in Bengali and translated the great Hindu epic Rig-Veda from the original Sanskrit. Many of his most famous works such as Madhabi Kankan (Bracelet of Flowers) were translated into English and achieved further success. He travelled to Europe in March 1868 and spent two years in Britain (April 1868 – August 1871) before returning to India via France, the Rhine, Switzerland and Italy. His account is in the form of extracts from letters written home. Subjects of interest to him included the London poor, Cambridge, the Boat race, Brighton and the seaside, Windsor Castle, the Derby (horse race), country life, politics, theatres, and house-keeping. He also comments on reactions to the Franco-Prussian war of 1870-71. He was very taken by Crystal Palace, but less so by advertising:

“On the 9th June, we went to see the Crystal Palace in Sydenham, a few miles from London. It is a large and magnificent building of thin sheets of glass joined together by thin bars of iron, having a noble arch in the middle and two wings stretching out on its two sides. The whole building glittering in the sun has a most imposing aspect. Outside the building are beautiful gardens, green lawns, gravel walks, beds of flowers and beautiful geometrical figures, groups of fountains playing and glittering in the sun, ornamental waters with swans floating on them, cool secluded walks through beautiful romantic groves, fine statues every here and there – every thing in fact that imagination can conceive or Art can supply to add to the beauty of the place. …

* * *

When the great Bonaparte called the English “a nation of shop-keepers,” he might have added “and of advertisers.” The rage for advertising is almost incredible. Not content with defacing every inch of space to which access may be had with advertisements, not content with covering the Railway Stations with bits of paper and pieces of wood, they actually hire men, and hanging two advertisements, one before and the other behind, send them off through the town. Fine occupation for these sandwiches!” (pp13-14)

The third edition of 1890 also incorporates an account of a second visit to Europe in 1886, when he visited England, Norway, Sweden, Paris, Holland, Belgium, Germany, Austria and Italy.

Ramesachandra Datta, England and India: a record of progress during a hundred years, 1785-1885 (London, 1897). xii + 166pp.

In addition to his fame as a writer, Ramesachandra Datta was also at various times the Commissioner of Orissa, Superintendent of Orissa Tributary States in India and a member of the Legislative Council of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. He wrote an Economic History of Bengal and an account of Civilization in Ancient India. His writing on England and India shows the extent to which he was both proud of his own roots and committed to the imperial project.

REEL 4

Ghanasyama Nikantha Nadkarni, Journal of a visit to Europe in 1896 (Bombay, 1903). ix + 420pp.

Rao Bahadur Ghanasham Nilkanth Nadkarni (as he appears on the title page) was a Fellow of the University of Bombay and a Pleader at the High Court there. He travelled to England on board the SS Australia via the Suez Canal and a brief sojourn in Marseilles and Paris.

His stay in London is fully recorded (5-43, 132-138, 266-273), ranging from the usual tourist spectacles of Westminster Abbey, Crystal Palace, the Tower of London and St Paul’s Cathedral, to more offbeat attractions such as a Turkish Bath, and a description of the insides of Jones and Higgins’ Stores. His professional associations took him to the Inns of Court and his political allegiances to the National Indian Association. There is much on art and culture, including trips to the Royal Academy, the British Museum, and the National Gallery. There is also a great deal on everyday pursuits such as cycling, typewriting, railway travel, and visits to the music hall, a barber shop and a chiropodist.

Nadkarni travelled extensively across Britain and comments on his experiences in Brighton (44-47); Cambridge – meeting Indian students at the university (57-61); the cathedral cities of Ely, Lincoln, York, Durham and Newcastle (61-69); Scotland – from Edinburgh and Glasgow to Inverness and Aberdeen (70-106); Wordsworth Country (107-117); Cottonopolis – the smoke and industry of Manchester and Liverpool (118-121); Chester, Hawarden and Shrewsbury (122-127); Stratford-on-Avon and Oxford (128-131); Eastbourne and Hastings – including an adventure with a lunatic on Beachy Head (139-141); Ireland (145-179); Wales (180-184); Leamington Spa, Kenilworth and Warwick (185-188); and Oxford again (197-202).

The journeys then continue across Europe to Paris (203-216 and 274-279); Belgium (220-229); Germany (230-245); Austria and Saxony (246-256); Berlin (257-260), Switzerland (280-302); Italy (303-304); Milan (305-313); Venice (314-321); Florence (322-337); Rome (338-349); Naples, Pompeii and Vesuvius (350-356); Pisa and Genoa (357-361) and the South of France (365-369).

The concluding remarks touch upon many of the themes and incidents of his travels – with thoughts on Liberty, Drunkeness, Materialism, Travelling, Emigration, Poverty, Sports, Love, Truth and Englishwomen.

The writing is in diary form for the most part, in a pleasant, conversational style. For instance, here is a description of a visit to Parliament:

“Among the gentlemen who spoke, were Sir W Harcourt and Mr Balfour – distinct and clear speakers. The whole debate was conducted in a becoming and argumentative way, and I was greatly pleased. I sat there from 3.30 to 7.15pm, when Sir W called me to a room in the House where refreshments are served. I was then shown the different chambers and taken to the Terrace, which is on the bank of the Thames. It was a beautiful scene. I saw some of the procedure of the Parliamentary discussion – how they divide and go into the Lobby &c. Sir W Wedderburn has given me a ticket for next Monday, when he hopes the Cotton Duty question will be discussed in the House, and he will have something to say on the matter.” (22).

He makes some astute and interesting observations:

“The love of order and discipline is a remarkable trait of English character, and one eminently worthy of careful study and imitation. I was greatly impressed with this love of method wherever I went. Indeed this salient feature of his character is observable in the minutest affairs and details of the Englishman’s life. …
A London policeman will by a simple wave of his hand bring to an instantaneous standstill the crowded vehicular traffic of a London Street. The drivers obey him as it were by instinct, ….
On the railway station the booking and carriage of goods and persons has been reduced to a fine art, and there is none of that unseemly bustle and confusion which torments the ears and irritates the temper at an Indian railway station. The porter knows his duty and will not wait to be reminded of it. This disciplinary readiness is observable at every public institution.” (413)

Nagandra Natha Ghosha, Indian views of England (Calcutta, 1877). 47pp.

Nagendra Nath Ghose (as the title page has it) was a barrister of the Middle Temple and an advocate of the High Court, Calcutta. His brief pamphlet was based on a talk given to the Hitakari Sabha, Ooterparah, and the Family Literary Club, Burrabazar. It is in some ways a response to Sir Henry Maine’s Cambridge lecture on ‘European Views of India: the effects of Observation of India on Modern Thought’ and seeks “to point out how utterly untenable are some of the assumptions so frequently made by our countrymen concerning the character of the English people and English institutions, and what there is in English ideas and English life which we can study with profit to ourselves.” (2)

Pothum Janakamma Raghavayya, Pictures of England (Madras, 1876). vi + 148pp.

This is a charming account of a visit to London, Manchester and Paris by “a Hindu lady of Madras” (Pothum Janakummah Ragaviah) in 1874. Her account is full of wonder. For instance, her arrival in London:

“As we were nearing Waterloo Station we crossed several bridges, and directing my view towards the innumerable turrets and high houses, the whole town seemed to be in a blaze, the cause being attributable to gas-lights with which the streets are lighted, as I afterwards learnt to be the case. We left our train and engaged cabs, drove through several streets, arriving at last at the Haxels Exeter Hotel, in the Strand. The brilliant lights even surpassed a bright moonlight night, and the countless people of both sexes walking up and down added a fresh impulse to the spectacle, and realized, to a certain extent, the true meaning of the word ‘Fairy-land’” (46)

The chief object of the visit to Manchester was “to see the working of the mills” which were a subject of great interest:

“An extensive sale for Manchester fabrics is found in the Indian market, and from this we can judge that Manchester merchants make double profits, is it wrong then that they should be termed merchant princes? If the millowners’ grievances in India should be redressed, then we would fully and confidently hope that Indian mills would abundantly supply our wants on the spot alone, instead of purchasing through foreign agents. If our rulers should cherish a hope that India alone ought to seek to provide clothing for persons instead of going into other markets, then the undoubted cry would be ‘give us the means,’ and if our rulers will give that, Indian mills will realize the wish.” (121)

Pratapachandra Majumdar, Sketches of a tour around the world (Calcutta, 1884). vi + 216pp.

P C Mozoomdar (as the title page has it) was a “mild Hindu reformer” who travelled extensively around the world in the early 1880s, and left a series of closely observed word portraits of his impressions of England, Germany, the USA, Japan, China, Singapore and Penang. He met with many celebrated figures including John Bright, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Harriet Beecher Stowe, Henry Ward Beecher, President Arthur, Cardinal Newman and Max Müller.

He is very conscious of his race and the way that he is treated. For instance, at the P & O Company’s offices in Calcutta:

“’You go England?’ asks the impenetrable official, concentrating such an amount of emphasis on the personal pronoun, second person, that our friend [the author] finds a strong flavour of the Criminal Procedure Amendment Bill agitation infused involuntarily into his sytstem.”

He was subsequently sold a ticket, putting him on the same deck as ‘Mr Justice - -’ and ‘Hon’ble Mrs - -’ only to find that:

“He soon discovered to his cost that to be on the same deck with people meant very much as to be on the same ship with them. The honourables and others had been allotted airy little one-berth or two-berth cabins on the right side of the ship, while our mild Hindu friend, perhaps in deference to his national prejudice, had been placed in a hole with the cow-house on one side, and the slaughter-house on the other.”

The contents of the volume are as follows:

How the Hindu Travels - 1
Ceylon - 7
From Colombo to Gibraltar - 12
Arrival in London - 18
The City of London - 24
May Meetings - 25
The Anglo Indian at Home - 27
India Office - 29
John Bright at Breakfast - 31
An English Political Festival - 38
The Atlantic - 47
The People of America - 52
The Vastness of America - 57
American Freedom - 62
The Red Man - 68
Negro Piety - 73
Religion in America - 80
The Falls of Niagara - 85
The American Woman - 90
American Newspapers - 96
Emerson - 103
President Arthur - 110
Mrs Stowe - 115
Henry Ward Beecher - 117
My Work in Great Britain - 119
A Trip to Germany - 132
Dean Stanley - 138
Prof Tyndall - 141
F W Newman - 145
Cardinal Newman - 146
Max Müller - 148
My Work in America - 151
Through the Pacific to Japan - 158
Who are the Japanese - 163
The Religion of Japan - 167
Japan Modernized - 171
Jeddo or Tokyo - 183
Japanese Wisdom - 191
The Chinese - 195
Penang and Singapore - 205
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He is impressed with the air of informality at the White House and with the role of the President:

“I had an introduction from a prominent United States Senator to the President. I therefore ascended the marble steps of [the] White House one fine afternoon after I had walked and driven a great deal in the picturesque metropolis of Washington. To my surprise I found a great many people had come on the same errand, and had been shown to a large waiting room where they talked, smoked, and made frequent use of the many spittoons. After a while we were ushered into the reception chamber. President Arthur stood at one end, and there were seats of all kinds placed around. The visitors walked up to him without any order or presentation, each one at the quickest opportunity, and by the shortest way. Those who were not obtrusive had to remain behind. I was seated not far from the space where the audience was taking place, and in spite of myself, a good deal of conversation drifted away into my hearing. An aggrieved sanitarian had the President by the buttonhole, persuading him to assent to some measure of municipal reform. …

The absence of formality, I might even say of dignity, was startling to me after my experience of red-tapism in the Old World. Men, great-coated up to their noses, and rough-shod, and hob-nailed, came forward with their muddy boots, and extending their palms growled out ‘How d’e do Preseden?’ And the great man had to courtesy, and be affable to all. ...

The President of the United States is more of a political institution, than a personal dignitary. Men have a patriotic respect for the abstract principle of his existence; for his concrete individuality they have a tolerant familiarity which at any moment threatens to give way before a loud self-assertive equality. No President can get installed into the republican throne without a merciless ordeal of public criticism, often attended with scathing, vile, vulgar abuse.” (110-112)

Japan is also singled out for praise:

“Japan has come to be the Eldorado of Asia. Romantic reports of its progress and aspiration fill the atmosphere. The land of the rising sun (Dai Nippon) seems somehow to be the land of hope in our continent. This perhaps is on account of the prevalence of European tendencies amongst us. Politics, manners, costumes, ideas, virtues, vices are all taking a new form in the model of European civilisation. Yet after all, to an impartial observer, it would not seem that Europe had penetrated more into Japan than India. Undoubtedly our people have been greatly more occidentalised. But Japan is a free country, a comparatively new country, and the Japanese people have a great deal of strong national feeling. The world takes more interest in a free country whose people go forward by their unforced, independent will, than in a country like India.” (171)

REEL 5

Reels 5 and 6 cover the writings of Behramji Malabari (1853-1912), the Bombay poet and journalist. He was a well-established professional man and did not need to seek benefactors. This gave him greater freedom of expression and enabled him to pursue a social reform agenda. In addition to his account of his stay in London, we include a contemporary biography and examples of his writings concerning the practice of infant marriage in India that he sought to end. We also feature (on Reel 6) a journal that he edited, which addresses East-West issues.

Dayarama Gidumal, The life and work of Malabari (Bombay, 1888). cxx + 329pp.

This includes a 120pp biographical sketch, with selections from his writings and speeches, and also his ‘Rambles of a Pilgrim Reformer.’ The writings and speeches cover infant marriage, enforced widowhood, wife murders, Theosophy, taxation, reform, ‘the East and the West’, the caste system, silk bandages, religion, the Ahmedabad Tichborne case, the evils of fashion, carnality, education, misguided patriotism, ‘the Hindu and the Red Indian’, and other topics.

Behramji Mehrbanji Malabari, Infant marriage and enforced widowhood in India (Bombay, 1887). vi + 109pp.

Behramji Mehrbanji Malabari, An appeal from the daughters of India [on infant marriage] (London, 1890). 20pp.

Malabari did much to focus arguments against child marriage:

“The custom has always been powerful and widespread; the protest against it feeble and spasmodic, like the pecking of birds at a huge cobra…”

Behramji Mehrbanji Malabari, The Indian eye on English life, or rambles of a pilgrim reformer…(London, 1893). vi + 231pp.

When Malabari came to England he travelled far and wide meeting all manner of people. He was conscious of his status as a “colonial native” and the book tells us much about how Indians were received by the various classes. He is critical of English morality (“if this be your English culture of the nineteenth century, let us be ignorant in India”, but remains an Anglophile. He was shocked by the poverty he saw:

“Poor as India is, I thank God she knows not much of the poverty to which parts of Great Britain have been accustomed – the East end of London, for instance, parts of Glasgow, and other congested centres of life. Men and women living in a chronic state of emaciation, till they can hardly be recognised as human, picking up food what even animals will turn away from; sleeping fifty, sixty, eighty of them together, of all ages and both sexes, in a hole that could not hold ten with decency; swearing, fighting, trampling on one another; filling the room with foul confusion and fouler air. This is not a picture of occasional misery; in some places it represents the every day life of the victims of misfortune.
In London itself there are hundreds of thousands who have a daily, almost hourly struggle of it, to keep body and soul together. So fierce is this struggle for existence that the victims can hardly find time to emerge from their work-holes for a whiff of fresh air. I am told of old Londoners who have never been out of their streets for years. Think of this in busy London, always on the move.
It is in winter, more than six months of the year, that you see the poverty of England at its worst. Thousands of men and women, disabled by accident, or thrown out of work, trudge aimlessly about, knowing not where to get a crust of bread, even a dry bone wherewith to allay the pangs of hunger that gnaw at their vitals; knowing not where to get an additional rag to keep the cold from eating into their marrow; knowing not where to lie down after a day’s disheartening tramp, for fear of the policeman, or for fear of never being able to get up again. …
And side by side with such heart-rending scenes of misery, one sees gorgeously dressed luxury flaunting in the streets, dragged along by horses better fed and better looked after than many a human family in the same neighbourhood.” (pp80-81)

The contents are as follows:

Chapter I-From Bombay to London - 1

A pilgrimage long deferred; preliminaries; ‘Crocodile’; the start; Organisation on board; The Voyagers and their fare; the language difficulty; the Pastor; the Voyage; Aden; Suez; Port Said; Brindisi and Trieste; a canter across the continent; First Railway experience in Europe; on to Lucerne; Hard put to it.

Chapter II-In and about London - 27

First impressions of a London crowd; the Weather; the People; the air they breathe; the dress they wear; the houses they live in; the food they eat; the drink they drink unto drunkenness; the pipe they smoke.

Chapter III-Life as seen at home - 58

English ‘home’ life; at School and College; why Indian youths fail amidst such associations; the Home Life of England and India contrasted; Marriage; Over-Population; Polygamy; Mothers; Funerals; Child Insurance.

Chapter IV-Life as seen in Public Affairs - 80

The Poverty of London; Charitable organisations; Pangs of Hunger; Personal appearance and hygiene; Religion; What has Christianity done?; the future of Christianity; Going to Church; Heart longings; the slaughter of animals; Hunting and Shooting; a wild beasts show; Vivisection; Labour Unions; Friendships; Militarism; the Navy; Other Careers; the Salvation Army; Racing and Betting; the Future of Royalty.

Chapter V-Life as seen in the streets and shops - 139

The London Policeman; the Postman; “Cabby”; the ’Bus; the Tram; the Railway; “Apartments”; Expenses; “The Daughters of India”; Business Morality; Tricks of the Trade; British pluck; an independent costermonger; Circulars and Advertisements; the Press in England and in India; Exhibitions; the Sights of London; Parks and Markets; stray sights; Street Arabs; Street Cries; the London Rough; “Bloody”; Farewell to London.

Chapter VI-The Continent Reconnoitred - 193

Paris; Cologne; Munich; Ober-Ammergau; Florence; St Peter’s; The Vatican; Naples; Venice; the Passion Play at Ober-Ammergau; Trieste, two days of suspense; Trieste to Bombay; a Channel crossing; some other continental cities.

REEL 6

Behramji Mehrbanji Malabari, The Indian eye on English life, or rambles of a pilgrim reformer…(Bombay, 1895). vii + 287pp.

The third edition was revised and updated. Malabari reveals that he never liked the title given to his book by English publishers:

“The owner of the eye has seen enough of English public life to acknowledge without demur the sovereignty of two of its principal factors – the Publicans and the Publishers.”

Behramji Mehrbanji Malabari, East and West [a periodical], Vol 1, Nos 1-4, November 1901 – February 1902.

Printed in Bombay, this ambitious and highly interesting periodical ran for four issues. Each runs to about 120 pages and contains a dozen or so articles by leading Indian and British reformers as follows:

Vol 1, No 1, Nov 1901

Indian Affairs in Parliament - Sir Charles Dilke - 1
Sir James Mackintosh in Bombay-Sir John Jardine - 5
The Economic Condition of India under Maratha rule -R C Dutt -18
Child-Worship-Mon Augustine Filon - 39
University Education in India-Mr Principal Selby - 45
‘Tis sixty yeas since-H G Keene - -57
The Govt of India & its famine critics-Sir Frank Forbes Adam - 64
What is my duty to the people of India?-W T Stead -70
Was Nur Jahan Lady Governor of Ahmedabad?-Rev Dr Taylor -76
The Extra-Territorial authority of Parlt -Sir Alex Miller -83
Prof Max Müller’s relations to India-Protap C Mozoomdar - 92
A Problem of the Future-H H the Aga Khan - 97
Christianity under Hindu Rulers-H Naraina Rao - 101
Editorial Notes - Competitive Examinations - The Indian Budget - 111
Current Events - 115
East & West - 123

Vol 1, No 2, Dec 1901

Education and the unity of the Race-Prof Ladd - 125
The West influencing the East-K C S I - 141
The Representation of India in the Imperial Parliament-Sir Roper Lethbridge - 146
Oriental and Occidental ideals-T Baty - 151
Some forgotten episodes-K J Badshah - 161
An appeal to Lord Salisbury-A Hindu Bhakt - 170
Marriage forms under Ancient Hindu Law-G M Tripathi - 176
Indian Civil Service Examinations-H G Keene - 189
Criminal Law … in the West and the East-Sir John Scott - 194
Famine Literature-A Rogers - 205
The North-West Provinces Tenancy Act-Anon - 221
Sir William Wilson Hunter – a Review - 225
Editorial Notes - The power and beauty of Beggary - 231
Current Events - 237

Vol 1, No 3, Jan 1902

The Hour of Lights-Mlle Lucie Felix Faure - 241
The Education of Indian Princes-H H M of Baroda - 243
French Canadians under English Rule-Andre Siegfried - 250
The Indian Village Community-Prof Satthianadhan - 258
A Petition on behalf of the Rural Poor…-Ramji bin Rowji - 265
A custom of Kent-Francis Watt - 279
The Govt of India & its famine critics-William Digby - 284
Liberalism-Prof J Nelson Fraser - 292
Marriage forms under Ancient Hindu Law-G M Tripathi - 296
Prices and Wages-G Subramania Iver - 303
The London School of Tropical Medicine-Sir Francis Lovell - 308
Transfer of land from Agriculturists…-A Rogers - 312
The Murder of Women-G C Whitworth - 320
“Prosperous” British India – A Review - 326
Editorial Notes - 330
Current Events - 336
Correspondence - 340

Vol 1, No 4, Feb 1902

India and the Colonies in the British Parlt-The Duke of Argyll - 341
Social Amenities – East and West-Col David Barr - 344
The Rise and Progress of Indian Education in Bengal-Pandit Sivanath Sastri - 353
Marriage forms under Ancient Hindu Law-G M Tripathi - 363
Reform movements in India-Rai Bahadur Baij Nath - 375
Joachim Menant, Philosopher & Indophile-The Duc de la Tremôille - 386
Police Reform in India-C W Whish - 395
The Pardah System in the Govt of India-Todar Mal - 411
Social and Political Reform-K S Rau - 423
India and the future home of the Boers-S I Narada - 429
The Veda and the Avesta-Prof L H Mills - 435
Memoirs of Maharaja Nubkissen Bahadur – A Review - 444
Editorial Notes - 451
Current Events - 454

REEL 7

Trailokyanatha Mukharji, A visit to Europe (Calcutta, 1889). xii + 404pp.

Chapter I-On the way - 1
Chapter II-First impressions - 27
Chapter III-The Exhibition and its Visitors - 64
Chapter IV-Notes and Observations - 139
Chapter V-The Excursions - 196
Chapter VI-Last Days in England - 310
Chapter VII -In the Continent - 331

From the Preface: “Mr T N Mukharji and two other Indian gentlemen were deputed by the Government of India to the Colonial and Indian Exhibition held in London in 1886. He stayed in Europe for about nine months, from April to December 1886, and travelled largely in England and on the Continent. … On his return to India, he was requested by some friends, and in particular by the Manager of the Indian Nation, to contribute to that journal, from week to week, a narrative of his experiences.”

The Exhibition is described in considerable detail:

“India formed by far the most interesting section of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition. Passing the vestibule at the main entrance, the visitor would stand before the clay models of the military races which uphold the power of England in the East. He would then be led to that gorgeous display of costly jewellery, gold and silver plate, brass and copper vessels with tasteful designs, minute wood carving, inlay work on metal, stone and wood, lacquered ware of ruby, emerald and golden hues, costly fabrics woven by patient hands unrivalled in the world, and various other articles which from time immemorial excited the wonder and commanded the admiration of the western nations. As the visitor stood facing this vast panorama of India’s artistic wealth, he could watch on his right the multitude crowding to the spot where the jungle life in India was illustrated in a rather over-drawn vividness.” (69)

Other museums gave him greater pause for thought:

“The Museums in Europe, where ethnographical specimens from all parts of the world have been collected, bring to the mind of the Indian a feeling of humiliation and sorrow. There he finds himself ranked amongst barbarous tribes with their cannibalism, human-sacrifice, tattooing and all sorts of cruel and curious customs that denote a savage life.” (324)

J Nauroji & H Mihrbanji, Journal of a residence of two years and a half in Great Britain (London, 1841). vi + 378pp.

Jehangeer Nowrojee and Hirjeebhoy Merwanjee (as the title page has it) were naval architects from Bombay who travelled to England in 1838 to study shipbuilding in Chatham. During their stay they also took the opportunity to see many other sights, as can be seen from the contents page:

Chapter I-Voyage from Bombay to England - 1

Chapter II-Arrival at Gravesend, and passage to London - 26

Chapter III-Introduction to Sir Charles Forbes.
The Diorama and the Zoological Gardens - 30

Chapter IV-Reception at the east India House - 35

Chapter V-Public conveyances and bridges - 39
Fares; Cruelty to Half Starved Horses; Job Carriages and
Horses; Suggestion for Omnibus System at Bombay; View of London, from the Bridges, at Night and at Sunrise; Riches of England; Corn Laws.

Chapter VI-Wax-work. Madame Tussaud - 64

Chapter VII-Railroads. Egham. Windsor. - 76

Chapter VIII-British Museum - 93

Chapter IX-The Parks - 98

Chapter X-Theatres - 101
Her Majesty at the Opera; Extravagant pay to dancers; Drury Lane; Van Amburgh; Promenade Concert;
Covent Garden; Madame Vestris; Saloon; Unhappy Females; Astley’s; Carter and his wild beasts; Victoria; Blanchard performs a monkey; Power of money; Rudeness of the Lower Orders.

Chapter XI-Scientific Institutions - 111
Adelaide Gallery; Steam-Gun; Daguerreotype; Polytechnic Institution; Its numerous and highly interesting contents; Blessings to England, in Coal and Iron; Hall’s Water Elevator recommended to India; Benefits arising to Science from the former pursuit of Astrology, &c; Mechanics Institutes.

Chapter XII-Bazaars. Laycock’s Dairy. Markets. - 143

Chapter XIII-National and Charitable Institutions - 150
Greenwich Hospital; Guy’s Hospital; Christ’s Hospital; National Schools.

Chapter XIV-Houses of Parliament - 164

Chapter XV-Police and Criminal Courts - 186

Chapter XVI-Exhibitions of the Fine Arts - 195

Chapter XVII-Public Buildings &c - 216

Chapter XVIII-Residence at Egham and Visits to Windsor - 232

Chapter XIX-Chatham Dock Yard - 246

Chapter XX-Chatham, Rochester, and Maidstone -288

Chapter XXI-Sheerness Dock Yard - 300

Chapter XXII-Woolwich Yard and Arsenal - 307

Chapter XXIII-The Custom House and the Docks of London - 312

Chapter XXIV-Vauxhall Gardens - 317

Chapter XXV-Illumination of London - 319

Chapter XXVI-Windsor Castle - 324

Chapter XXVII-The East India House - 342

Chapter XXVIII-Steam Manufactories in London - 358

Chapter XXIX-The Royal Institution - 362

Chapter XXX-Newspapers and Periodicals - 365

Chapter XXXI-Tour of the Naval Arsenals and Principal Seaports - 385

Chapter XXXII-Customs, and Manners, Education, &c -451

Chapter XXXIII-Albums. Epitaphs. - 465

Chapter XXXIV-Climate of England - 479

Chapter XXXV-Concluding Observations - 487

Thomas Pandiyan, England to an Indian eye (London, 1897). 96pp.

This is an interesting and insightful short account by the Rev Thomas Pandian of Madras (author of ‘Indian Village Folk’ and other works) of his visit to England. There are sections on British Homes and Hospitality, Working Class Homes, Locomotion in London, Life in the Country, Business Methods, Advertising Tact, The Christian Denominational Look-out, Jews in England, Social Evils in England and other topics.

He condemns the “drinking mania” and “the national infatuation for betting and gambling”. He also comments on theatres and music halls:

“As for the immorality associated with the British stage, I do not care to say much; but I cannot help condemning the unseemly want of modesty that enables young and pretty actresses to exhibit themselves to the public gaze in costumes and attitudes that would call up deep blushes of shame to the faces of much maligned dancing girls of my own native land.” (93)

REEL 8

G P Pillai, London and Paris through Indian spectacles (Madras, 1897). iii + 105pp.

This book is made up of twelve letters, which were originally contributed to the Madras Standard and describe Pillai’s visit to Plymouth, London, Brighton, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, Bray, Chester, Hawarden and Paris in 1897. Printed by the Vaijayanti Press in Madras, the text is accompanied by many contemporary periodical illustrations. Each essay provides a compelling vignette of some aspect of English or European life:

Letter I-The Landlady
Letter II-The Restaurant
Letter III-The Cab; The Bus
Letter IV-The Policeman
Letter V-Tramps; The Crossing Sweeper; The Shoe-Black; The Flower-Girl
Letter V-The Postman; The Organ grinder; The Newsboy; The Barber; The Public House
Letter VII-Historic London; The Bank Holiday; The Porter; The Masher; The East-Ender; The Hyde Park Orator
Letter VIII-The English Woman
Letter IX-Scotland and Ireland
Letters X-XI-Paris
Letter XII-The House of Commons

Jhinda Ram, My trip to Europe (Lahore, 1893). 140pp.

Jhinda Ram was Pleader at the Chief Court of Punjab and visited London, Liverpool, Paris, Turin, Milan, Florence and Rome. He wrote of his experiences, including visits to the National Gallery, the Zoological Gardens, the Royal Aquarium, Madame Tussaud’s, The Crystal Palace, Kew Gardens, Woolwich and Westminster Abbey. He describes the magnitude and greatness of London (17), street scenes (11), the theatres (26), etiquette (30) and the “general treatment I received from the English people” (75).

Joseph Salter, The Asiatic in England. Sketches of sixteen years work among Orientals (London, 1873). 298pp.

This volume is included for the information that it contains on Asians living in the poorer areas of London in the 1870s. Salter described himself as a “Missionary to the Asiatics in England” and worked with Bengali, Burmese, Chinese, Malay, Siamese and Surati communities. There are descriptions of the Home that was opened to accommodate those in greatest need, on prisons, on working environments and on opium smoking rooms. For instance:

“J Kirby, 53A, inspector of common lodging-houses, stated that, on Saturday night last, he visited defendant’s house, which was in a most filthy and dilapidated condition. In the first floor he found a Chinaman sleeping in a cupboard or small closet, filled with cobwebs. The wretched creature was apparently in a dying state, and has since expired. An inquest was held on his remains, and it was proved that he died of fever, and had been most grossly neglected. The room in which the Chinaman lay was without bedding or furniture. In the second room he found Aby Calighan, an Irishwoman, who said she paid 1s 6d a week rent. In the third room was Abdallah, a Lascar, who said he paid 3s a week, and a Chinaman squatting on a chair smoking. In the fourth room was Dong Yoke, a Chinaman, who said he paid 2s 6d per week for the privilege of sleeping on the bare boards; two Lascars on bedsteads smoking opium, and a dead body of a Lascar lying on the floor, and covered with an old rug. In the fifth room was an Asiatic seaman, named Peru, who said he paid 3s a week, and eleven other Lascars, six of whom were sleeping on bedsteads, three on the floor, and two on chairs. If the house were registered, only four persons would be allowed in this room. The effluvium caused by smoking opium, and the overcrowded state of the room, was most nauseous and intolerable.”

R Caldwell, Records of the Early History of the Tinnevelly Mission of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge and the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Lands (Madras, 1881).

This volume provides some insights into East-West interactions in India, giving the history of one of the earliest Christian missionary efforts in the Tinnevelly region. Many of the Indians who subsequently travelled to England, were products of the missionary schools.

Caldwell was Assistant to the Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of Madras, an Honorary Member of the Royal Asiatic Society and a Fellow of Madras University.

Joseph Salter, The East in the West, or work among the Asiatics and Africans in London (London, 1896). 174pp

Salter’s second account of life among the down and outs of immigrant communities in London is well illustrated. Its chapter headings give a flavour of the coverage:

Chapter I-Plague Spots of Oriental Vice - 13
Chapter II-Tiger Bay - 19
Chapter III-Chinese Opium-Dens - 26
Chapter IV-Chinese Amazons - 32
Chapter V-The Black-Hole in the Devil’s Dyke - 37
Chapter VI-Gambling Hells - 41
Chapter VII-Chinese Music - 47
Chapter VIII-Heathenism in the Inner Radius - 52
Chapter IX-Central Africans - 57
Chapter X-Suratis, Swahilis, Manillas, and Chinese - 70
Chapter XI-Adventures on Turkish War-Ships - 81
Chapter XII-Sick Sailors in the “Dreadnought” Hospital - 97
Chapter XIII-Asiatics and Africans in Prison - 104
Chapter XIV-Oriental Adventurers - 115
Chapter XV-Foreigners’ Fetes of the London City Mission - 126
Chapter XVI-Indian Exhibitions in London - 138
Chapter XVII-The Asiatic Rest - 150

REEL 9

Reels 9 and 10 contain a range of writings by Samuel Satthianadhan (or Satyanatha) (d1906), a prominent figure in Indian education who was a foundation scholar at Corpus Christi College. He was the son of the Rev W T Satthianadhan, a celebrated convert from the Hindu faith to Christianity, who was the first Indian to hold an Episcopal office. When Samuel returned from Cambridge he met with Krupabai Khisty (1862-1894), who was then recovering from the illness that made her quit her medical studies. They married and lived in Ootacamund where he served as Headmaster at Breeks Memorial School. After brief periods in Rajahmundry and Kumbakonam, they moved in 1886 to Madras, where he was made Assistant to the Director of Public Instruction and then Chair of Logic and Philosophy at Presidency College. Krupabai Satthianadhan wrote her famous novels Saguna (1886) and Kamala (1888) in this period (these appear in our Colonial Discourses series, Series Three, covering Indian Fiction). Their only child was born in 1887, but died after a few months. After 7 years of troubled health, Krupabai died in 1894. Samuel’s second wife, coincidentally named Kamala, also wrote stories.

Samuel Satthianadhan, England and India. Lectures (Madras, 1886). iv + 96pp.

This slim volume contains brief essays on a variety of topics including:

I-English University Life
II -Intellectual results of the English University system of education
III-England and India
IV-English Character
V-First Impressions of London
VI-India’s needs
VII-English education in India and its effects
VIII-Religious movements in India

Samuel Satthianadhan, Missionary work in India from a native Christian point of view (Madras, 1899). 44pp.

This pamphlet considers the value of Christian missions. It acknowledges that they have often been considered failures because of the comparatively low number of converts, but denies that this is an appropriate measure of their influence.

Samuel Satthianadhan, Four years in an English university (Madras,1890). 138pp.

Satthianadhan’s account of his time at Cambridge is accompanied by a chapter on the Indian Civil Service Examination by A C Dutt, another Indian scholar at Cambridge.

Chapter I-Cambridge and its colleges - 1
Chapter II-Oxford - 10
Chapter III-The advantages of an education at Oxford or Cambridge - 19
Chapter IV-The Freshman’s first experiences of College life - 26
Chapter V-How a day is spent at Cambridge - 33
Chapter VI-College friendships and College days - 43
Chapter VII-The previous examination - 49
Chapter VIII-The mathematical tripos - 57
Chapter IX-Other Cambridge examinations - 71
Chapter X-University Education in England and in India - 79
Chapter XI-Physical and social habits of Cambridge men - 90
Chapter XII-The cost of a three years’ course at Cambridge - 99
Chapter XIII-Religious life at Cambridge - 107

Samuel Satthianadhan, The Rev W T Satthianadhan, B D, a brief biographical sketch

to which is appended:

Krupabai Satthianadhan, The Story of a Conversion (Madras, 1893), xvi + 114pp.

Samuel Satthianadhan, Theosophy: An appeal to my countrymen (Madras, 1893). 18pp.

Samuel Satthianadhan, A Holiday trip to Europe and America (Madras, 1897) 234pp.

If Satthianadhan first trip was focussed on his own education in Cambridge, then this later trip was focussed on gathering experiences. Picturesque Italy, Italian and Swiss Scenery and Germany and the Romantic Rhine were all seen before he visited London. There is an interesting account of Indian students in London. Then he travelled to America and visited Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, and the Niagara Falls, before returning to England. He returned home via Paris, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Berlin and Vienna.

REEL 10

Samuel Satthianadhan and Kamala Satthianadhan, Stories of Indian Christian life (Madras, 1898). iv + 282pp.

There are twelve stories in total. Those marked with an asterisk (*) were written by Kamala.

I-Justah Gunapuranum, the Agnostic - 1
II-A Story of Sixty Years Ago - 10
III-The Story of Sridevi Ammal - 18
IV-The Rev Charles Softleigh’s Renowned Convert - 27
V-The Native Pastor and his Flock* - 39
VI-The Story of John Gabriel* - 53
VII-“All’s Well That Ends Well”* - 69
VIII-Sita’s Emancipation* - 94
IX-“From Darkness into Light”* - 120
X-The Story of a Temptation* - 148
XI-The Story of Paripuranum - 169
XII-“The Cleansing Fire” - 229

Charles Stewart (translator), The travels of Mirza Abu Talib Khan in Asia, Africa and Europe During the Years 1799, 1800, 1801, 1802 and 1803 (London, 1810).

Mirza Abu Talib Khan was a Muslim Scholar and poet who was received into Royal and aristocratic circles when he travelled across Europe from 1799 to 1803. He described many meetings in a travelogue, the original of which is held by the British Library.

Charles Stewart translated this into English from Persian in 1810 and it was well received. There are many great set pieces, such as his meeting with King George I and Queen Charlotte:

“Both these illustrious personages received me in the most condescending manner, commanded me to come frequently to court. After this introduction, I received invitations from all the Princes; and the Nobility vied with each other in their attention to me. Hospitality is one of the most esteemed virtues of the English; and I experienced it to such a degree that I was seldom disengaged and enjoyed every luxury.” (pp161-162)

Abbreviated contents - Vol I:

Chapter I- Origins. Insurrections in Oude. Calcutta. - 7
Chapter II- Embarkation. Anglo-French rivalry at sea. - 20
Chapter III- East Indies. Punishment of Indian sailors. Africa. - 29
Chapter IV- Life on the Cape. Different races. Sails for England. - 56
Chapter V- St Helena. Ascension. An American passenger. - 78
Chapter VI- Arrival in Cork. Journey to Dublin. - 93
Chapter VII- Dublin. Statues. The Theatre. - 109
Chapter VIII- The Irish. Snow. Wales. Chester. Journey to London. - 135
Chapter IX- London. Court. Windsor. Oxford. Blenheim House. - 158
Chapter X- London. Greenwich. Freemasons. British Museum. Chimney-sweepers. Hindustani women. - 181
Chapter XI- England - Agriculture, Roads. London - Squares, Coffee houses, Clubs, Opera, Theatre, Buildings.-202
Chapter XII- Newspapers. Hot-houses. Woolwich Arsenal. - 220
Chapter XIII- Mechanics. Mills. Foundries. Steam Engines. - 237
Chapter XIV- Work. Leisure. Role of women. Servants. Children. - 255
Chapter XV- Government. Crown. Parliament. The Church. - 272.
Chapter XVI- East India Company. Board of Control. Lord Mayor. - 305

Abbreviated contents - Vol II:

Chapter XVII- English Legal system. Prosecution by a tailor. - 3
Chapter XVIII- Loans. Taxes. The Poor. The Rich. Middle classes - 18
Chapter XIX- English character - censure. Virtues of Islam. - 27
Chapter XX- English character - praise. London customs. Beds. - 55
Chapter XXI- European geography. Bonaparte. Hanover. - 69
Chapter XXII- War vs Tippoo Sultan. War vs France. War in Egypt. - Turkish and Indian involvement. - - 91
Chapter XXIII- Return journey. France. Life in Paris. Baths. Food.- 109
Chapter XXIV- Character of French. Fashion. Life at Court. - 132
Chapter XXV- Lyons. Avignon. Marseilles. American travellers. - 146
Chapter XXVI- Italy. Genoa. Music. Leghorn. Assassination attempt. - 167
Chapter XXVII- Malta. Smyrna. Osman Aga. Sea of Marmora. - 185
Chapter XXVIII- Constantinople. Baths. Fashion. Luxury. Bazaars. - 207
Chapter XXIX- Character of Turks. Freedom of women. Viziers. - 234
Chapter XXX- Amasia. Gold & Silver mines. The Euphrates. - 256
Chapter XXXI- Desert. Kurds. Mosul. Mohammed Pasha. Baghdad. - 280
Chapter XXXII- Baghdad. Mausoleums. Architecture. - 302
Chapter XXXIII- Karbala. History of the Vahabies. - 321
Chapter XXXIV- Najaf. Religion. Travel on the Tigris. - 338
Chapter XXXV- Basrah. Long delay. - 358
Chapter XXXVI- Persian Gulf. Sea of Oman. Indian Ocean. Bombay. - 378

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